From Reporter Issue 78

Chez Stokes 

If you’re looking for an informal, easily accessible place to eat, serving unpretentious, healthy, reasonably priced food in a relaxed atmosphere with a view on…squash courts, I can think of one place to fit the bill.

The Squash Club in Antibes, dear Watson! Just off the autoroute exit in the Terriers Nord area, it makes for a very central meeting place. Lunch and dinner are served weekdays in the pleasant bar area which also looks out on the pool. In warm weather, tables are set up outdoors, where you can choose from the grills and a well-stocked, extra fresh salad buffet near the pool (about 70 francs) — and have a refreshing dip as well. Sandwiches can be had all day at the bar and I’ve heard that the pizzas, available evenings only, are very good indeed.

Since his arrival in September, local French chef Jean-Claude has earned a reputation and a following of return-clientele for his interesting, well-priced plats du jour, usually in the range of 50 to 60 francs, with le pavée de boeuf a bit more expensive. Owner Clive Stokes boasts that Jean-Claude’s cassoulet is as good as that which is served in Castelnaudary. The menu also proposes a range of salads, pasta dishes and grills.

The plats are not garnished with just a token veg as is often the case in France; the day’s special which I chose — Longes de porc au moutarde et de l’estragon — was served with cauliflower tempura, tomate farci, and mushroom-topped rosti. Delicious. My dining companion opted for the Steak de thon à l’Andalouse, garnished with rice and courgettes, and pronounced it also very good. For dessert we enjoyed the homemade apple pie and pear-almond tarte as well as the succes au chocolat.

With our meal we drank a Domaine Solitude Châteauneuf du Pape ‘98 at 119 francs. Clive is proud of his wine list which changes monthly, offering — as an added attraction — good bottles at prices far lower than normal in a restaurant.

Linger if you like, over a coffee at the bar, while watching the players on the courts or while playing a game of pool. But if time is short, just pop in for a quick, pleasant meal.

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