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From Reporter Issue 82
“My husband and I” have had the good fortune to eat at many royal
restaurants over the years but on a Saturday in October we found a
little bijou in Juan les Pins. First problem in the rain or on a hot
day in July and August, how do you find a place to park? No problem – a
voiturier sweeps your car away at the door and returns it like a rabbit
out of a hat on your way home.
Rabbit is not on the menu but there are a few tempting meat dishes,
Médaillon de Porc Panés, Tomates Fraîches au Pistou ou Tian d’Agneau à
l’Huile de Truffles, but this is really a restaurant for fishophiles or
vegetarians hankering for imaginative choices.
This is a 15 year old family business, on the beach with idyllic
views towards the Lerins islands and the Cap d’Antibes, decorated with
a maritime theme. You can sit in the main restaurant or on the covered
terrace to admire the views and in summer there is a private beach with
mattresses, parasols, pedaloes and a beach bar serving daily
specialities. You are probably think I’m mad to talk about the beach in
December but summer is not far away and this restaurant opens it
facilities when the temperature permits. One for the diary for the warm
weather
Back to the food. The menu is adapted every 4 – 6 weeks to keep
abreast of changing seasons. This restaurant has a reputation for
bouillabaisse and seafood platters - oysters, clams, langoustines, crab
etc. There are Suggestions du Chef and a wide A la Carte plus the Menu
Bijou (165 FF) and Menu Plaisir (280 FF), which offer a multitude of
tempting choices for each course. Amuses Bouches, followed by entrées
of Soupe de Moules au Saffron (creamy yellow mussel soup -
indescribably delicious) , Cassolette de Coquillages au Lard, à l’Huile
d’Olive et aux Citron (mixtures of shellfish with an extraordinary
flavour). Next we tried the Assiette du Pêcheur au Jus de Bouillabaisse
(people come for miles for this and you can really taste the flavours
of each fish – mussels, turbot, John Dory etc. accompanied with rouille
and croûtons) and the Délice de Gâteau d’Ecrevisses au Coulis
Crustacés, Filet de Saint Pierre Grillé (a John Dory with an amazing
selection of crunchy colourful vegetables). Nothing is frozen and fish
is bought at the market on a daily basis. The presentation is
immaculate, the plates are hot and the service is interested and
attentive but not intrusive.
We had to confess to being beaten by the cheese board but you have
to leave something for a return visit! After a pause we were ready to
be intrigued by the desserts. The Chef Patissier has created treats for
Chocolate lovers, Romantics, Fruit fanatics and even those on a diet.
We enjoyed a Papillon plate (specially for us), where the fruit and
sorbets were arranged in butterflies. Terrific.
During the week (Monday to Saturday) there is a lunch menu at 110 FF
with an entrée, main course and dessert including some of the dishes
mentioned above. Excellent value for money but you do need to book.
This is a busy place.
I hope by now you are rushing out of the door down to Juan les Pins, but where to?? This gem of Juan is Bijou Plage.
© Stella Haworth
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