|
From Reporter Issue 93
“Fish and chips, a pint of lager and Liverpool F.C.”
Of course, we all like to tuck into French food from time to time
but scratch the average Brit, in particular, and you’ll very likely
find someone who often pines for his or her native nosh. But where to
find it? That’s the problem. Dotted along the Coast there are quite a
few places offering “English food.” One or two are very good, some
middling, quite a number downright awful. That created a ready-made
market for Leslie Azoulay when just before last Christmas he opened the
Station Tavern in Cannes.
“I was born to this trade,” Leslie told me, over a Guinness.
“Dad was a French chef in London, mum was English. I was born in
Chelsea and brought up on tales from the kitchens at the Grosvenor and
the Berkeley. I actually went into the Ritz. You soon know if you’re
cut out for the business—it’s very hard work and, in the old days at
least, there was no place for clock-watching. To cut short the
biographical bit, I came to France, to Paris, in the late seventies and
worked in the clothing business but eventually the call of the kitchen
was too strong and, with a partner, I opened a restaurant in Antibes.
Eventually that was sold and my next step was the Station Tavern.”
What gave him the idea? “Well, I was always meeting Brits in
Antibes—off the yachts, out of Sophia, all sorts, and I realised that
there was a demand for something like a proper traditional English
pub—friendly, not flash, suitable for the family, good plain food, and
a bit of entertainment—soccer on a big screen, an English pool table.
This place came on the market, I bought it and there you are.” And
there I was enjoying a plate of excellent fish and chips and a pint of
Guinness. “That’s a favourite in summer,” Leslie told me, “along with
chicken but in winter I go for things like steak and kidney pie and
cornish pasties. And I musn’t forget a speciality of the
house—chocolate pudding with custard, made by my daughter. I’ve a good
range of beers—Hoegaarden, Kilkenny, Stella, what you’re drinking, and
Strongbow cider, that goes very well.”
I heard English all around me during lunch. Tourists? “Not
many. About 85 per cent of my customers are English-speaking but mostly
living or working here. For example, I’ve become the local for the
Brits who fit up exhibitions at the Palais des Festivals. They come in
early for English breakfast and they’re back after work for a meal and
a few beers. There’s a friendly atmosphere, never any trouble and
anyone who drops in is sure of a great welcome. It’s a winning
formula—fish and chips, a pint of lager and—maybe—Liverpool F.C.”
Fish
and chips and a pint of lager come at 10 euros; full English breakfast
costs 7.50 euros. The Station Tavern is at 50 rue des Serbes, 06400
Cannes. Tel: 04 93 38 34 91. Come out of Cannes train station, look
left across the road and it’s on the corner. Bon appétit!
© Patrick Middleton
 |
Table Talk 
Subscribe to this comment's feed
Show/Hide comments
Show/Hide comment form