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From Reporter Issue 102
A flavour all its own
American Rick Fernandez is a former investment broker turned hotelier in Haut de
Cagnes. While there may not be a direct relation between the two professions,
perhaps his experiences abroad in London and Singapore have helped to contribute
to the smashing success of his recently acquired Le Grimaldi. Located in the
Place du Château in a mediaeval setting with a superb view, this renovated
five-room hotel-restaurant has a personality of its own, as does its owner who
immediately endears himself to his clients - both guests and diners.
The
food at Le Grimaldi is prepared by chef Franck Manenq assisted by Daniel
Constable, a dynamic duo, who worked together at a restaurant in the village
before teaming up with Rick. Manenq worked under a Michelin star chef before and
his speciality is in the creativity, originality and presentation of the food.
He has full reins for choosing produce and setting the menus
seasonally.
Chef Manenq offered us three courses he felt
represented Le Grimaldi, not including the mise en bouche - Parmesan
crisps, olives, red peppers à la Mediterranean, toast with tapanade and
parma - or dessert. To start we had a vegetable lasagna (not on the menu) which
wasn't traditional lasagna but rather pasta draped over seafood and
oriental-style vegetables. Really an explosion of taste and too delicious to
leave one bite (forgetting that there were two courses to
come!).
This was followed by Risotto de la Riviera: crevettes grises, poêlée de gambas et jus de viande. Risotto is a popular
dish in this region but de la Riviera really had an edge on any others I've
tired. The last to be served was a savory roast duck with foie gras
poêlé, figs, port and pieces of truffle... need I say more? To bring it all
to an end was a red-fruit medley - rhubarb and strawberries - served with a
berry sorbet. All of this complemented with a Saumur Champigny Château de
Chaintre red (Vallée de la Loire), one of the many impressive regional wines on
offer.
Le Grimaldi's ambience is simple, elegant and pleasing.
With its off-white decor, candles and cosiness, there is a sense of intimacy not
found in many other restaurants with similar seating capacity. There are
intriguing subtleties you'll come across during the course of your meal which
further add to the overall Le Grimaildi eating experience, but that I will leave
for fellow gourmets to discover on their own. Certainly there was no shortage of
compliments and raves from our table or any of the others around us - a sign of
a superior restaurant.
Hôtel de Grimaldi is open daily except Tuesday. Lunch is served from noon- 14h00
and dinner from 19h30. Restaurant offers two menus: "Decouverte & Saveurs"
for 32e and "Evasion & Saveurs" at 52e. Special menus for
holidays.
Hôtel de Grimaldi, 6, place du Château, Cagnes
sur Mer
Tel: 04 93 20 60 24
Fax: 04 93 22 82 19
Email:
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© Nancy Wilson
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