Eating Outside

Written by Nancy Wilson

From Reporter Issue 104

Dining out ... side

A great advantage to life on this Coast is the range of good restaurants at affordable prices. Especially at this time of year, make the most of the agreeable climate and long evenings by dining outdoors. With all the choices — Mougins Village, Haut de Cagnes, Juan les Pins — sometimes it’s difficult to make a decision but if traditional dishes with a convivial and open environment sound appealing, there are two local establishments that come highly recommended: Le Safari in Cours Saleya, Nice and Café des Arcades in Place des Arcades, Valbonne.

Cours de Saleya in Nice can actually be a bit of a trap for the unfamiliar visitor. For those who mosey up and down in search of a place to eat, there are too many hostesses ready to prey upon you to eat at their mediocre restaurant. Often the meal turns out to be a disappointment. So, continue walking to Le Safari at the east end of the market area at 1 cours Saleya. No matter what time you arrive, the restaurant is always abuzz. The outside terrace is sizable and ideal for people watching while the interior is intimate with lots for the eye to take in. The menu is diverse with a flare of local fare: petits farcis or oven-baked rabbit are two of my favourites. But there is everything from salads (the artichoke Parmesan is terrific) to pizzas and pastas to ... tripe, for the five of you reading this who might actually order it. Most notably is the impressive selection of fresh fish. Desserts are traditional and the wine list reflects the quality of the food, good but not exceptional.

But the magic of Le Safari is the overall combination of elements: the portions, the flavours, the terrace and the well-timed rhythm of the staff, many of whom have been there for some time. Often there is a sense of walking in to a family environment and that is a relaxing way to start any meal. And with the Promenade only steps away, a leisurely digestive walk is the perfect way to end an evening.

Valbonne village is famous for market Fridays, but it's worth a visit any day of the week. Certainly, if you’ve never made the trip it’s about time you did. This picturesque 16th century village, only 25 minutes from Nice, boasts a key feature that is responsible for so much of its allure: a large open square in the heart of the village filled with restaurants and cafés, as well as plenty of space for the kids to run free while you relax over a glass of wine and a bite to eat.

Café des Arcades is the largest of the restaurants in the square and just recently came under new ownership. Again, the food is typical, tasty and abundant: champignons farçis (could they add any more garlic?) a varied salad selection including canaille or berger, pizzas, entrecôte, pastas and a regional wine list, although you’ll notice many carafes of rosé at neighbouring tables. The service is friendly and certainly for those who frequent the restaurant, a rapport is quickly developed.

During summer and fall, the mariachis will be by to entertain as well as an appearance by the Glo Man (not his official title of course) who sells neon glow-in-the-dark tubes — certainly a hit with the gaggle of children pawing at his side. Also during the tourist season, a few of the local shops are open until 11.
Dinner at Café des Arcades is truly one of my favourite ways to spend an evening in the warmer months. Between the backdrop and the sounds of laughter the ambience can’t be beat.

Reservations recommended at both Le Safari and Café des Arcades during peak season.

© Nancy Wilson

Le Safari, 1 cours Saleya, Nice. Open daily except Mon night.
Tel 04 93 80 18 44.

Cafe des Arcades, Place des Arcades, Valbonne. Open daily noon and night.
Tel 04 93 12 00 06