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"All art is quite useless." Oscar Wilde: "The Portrait of Dorian Gray" (Preface)
When I first came to live and work on the Côte d’Azur in the early eighties, I possessed very limited knowledge about la vie dans le Midi. While sorting through a pile of junk that had been left in the garage of our new home, I came across what looked like an old, dusty hamster cage, or, having no exercise-wheel, perhaps a very small birdcage?
Foolishly throwing the thing out before having the common sense to ask our neighbours what it might be, it was some months later that I discovered it was an old cheese safe…the likes of which I would now love to see gracing our kitchen.
Over the years I have come to learn a little more about la vie Provençale, but I wonder how many of our readers would be at a loss if confronted with a panetière, or a pétrin?
As the calmer off-season months are far more conducive for visiting the many fascinating brocantes in our region, perhaps I might offer some guidelines as to what not to miss out on.
La Panetière is another cage-like construction; originally an open wooden box that was hung from the beams of the house (from the Middle Ages to the 16th century) to keep food away from rodents and damp.
Later, it was hung on the wall, where it functioned as a glorified type of bread-bin.
In spite of having carved wooden legs the panetière was not intended to be placed either upon another piece of furniture, or upon the floor. The top is decorated with carved bobèches, which resemble old wooden bobbins.
As most French bread, nowadays, tends to taste the same whether kept five foot in the air, in a cloth sac, or a modern bread-bin - and is more likely than not to be kept in the plastic bag it arrives in - the panetière has become a coveted antique. Later models tend to be somewhat smaller and more decorative than their earlier ‘working’ counterparts.
An attractive Napolèon III model in walnut, in good condition, would set you back around 1,200 Euros.
The next meuble that might keep you guessing at the local brocante is the pétrin, a wooden trapezoidal-shaped box - you would be excused for taking it to be a cradle or small coffin - which sits on a stable, framed-base and has a movable fitted cover.
Originally a simple wooden box on trestles in which bread dough was kneaded, there exist many different models; some with the ‘box’ fixed permanently to the base, some with trap-doors to release the dough. As with le panetière, later models became finer and more elaborately decorated. It is by its 18th century shape that we recognise it today.
Prices vary considerably, but expect to pay over 1,000 Euros for an early model in good condition.
For those looking for something a little more affordable, it’s not too difficult to come across an attractive, wooden boîte à sel (salt box) usually with a hinged lid and lower drawer for spices, (these were also fashioned in ceramic and metal) or a wooden farinière (flour box) – the top sliding door is closed and the box shaken to dust food for frying. These small, functional pieces appeared around the 16th century onwards. Once again, they were usually hung from the ceiling in the dining-room or kitchen.
In 1914, the avant-garde artist, Marcel Duchamp, displayed his first ‘ready-made’ artwork: ‘Le Hérisson’ or ‘Porte Bouteilles’; actually a galvanised iron bottle-drainer which he bought at his local BHV (Bazar de l’Hôtel de Ville) store in Paris. Still sought after for their aesthetic charm, you can find an original, (unfortunately, not Duchamp’s!) on ‘eBay’ for around 65 Euros.
Indeed, while sitting in our local bar thinking about the subject of this article it suddenly dawned upon me that the attractive, holed and much-pitted, wooden decorative ‘screen’ that I have often gazed at in admiration - without questioning its origins - is, in fact, an old, much-used, bottle-drainer!
And so, when browsing around your local jumble sale, flea market or car-boot sale, beware of passing by what might look like a bizarre and totally useless item. Remember Wilde’s quote - you might not be able to put that old lump of wood to work for you, but it might, at worst, make great dinner-party conversation or, at best, become a much-loved home decoration, or even pass for a real ‘work of art’.
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